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An Ancient Trail to Beijing from West (京西古道) 20 January 2008
The above is the first part of a much treasured poem by eminent Chinese Buddhist monk Great Oneness (弘一), which was late adopted as the theme song of a Chinese film about a Beijing native who lives a life thousands miles away from the capital. The verse is used in the movie to illustrate an ancient path that leads all the way to Beijing - a scene keeps returning to haunt the central character in the story whenever she falls homesick. The Gate Valley (门头沟), where the humble village named Three Family's Store (三家店) famously situated, is traditionally a coal mine area, thus the trail in question came into being, which allowed the critical fuel to be transported to the heart of the nation through the Fuchen Gate (阜成门), a city gate in the west part of Beijing especially designated for the honourable coal carriages. Around the Gate Valley, there is the Eternal Ease River (永定河), regarded as the Mother River of the Chinese capital; along the river at the both sides, there are numerous picturesque hills popular among bush walkers from the city; and among the hills, there is Three Family's Store Reservoir (三家店水库) which looks more like a beautiful lake than an engineering project.
Not too far way from the reservoir, there sits the ancient village Three Family's Store; and near the village there is a large grape yard owned by a former coal mine owner. The businessman who transformed himself form black to green is thinking about how to put forth an advertiment, not to appeal to miner wannabes from poor villages, but grape pickers among the urban residents as part of his ambitious tourist program. In recent years, the local governments have spent 169 million yuans to fix the environmental problems caused by coal mining, and of over 250 mines, 214 were shut down, while 400 hectare of land have been redeveloped into orchards. The history of the Three Family's Store is said can be dating back to the 10th century. This ancient village used to serve as a port and the termination point of the so-called Ancient Trail to Beijing from West (京西古道). In its heyday, that extended until early in the last century, the streets lined with about two hundred shops, eateries and inns. The camel troops carrying coals marched through with the sound of bells intoning along the way, and incense bearers from Beijing to the Celestial Altar Hill (天台山) and the Amazing Apex Hill (妙峰山) took a rest from their long journey for lunch or tea breaks there. Today, the evidence of its past glory can still be observed through the ancient street about one kilometres in length, with temples scattered all around. The residents living in the quadrangle residences kept their age-old habits unchanged, throwing their front gates wide open during the day. By the door, little yellow flowers blossom freely, while dogs enjoy sunbaking nearby. When a stranger walks past the gates, the lazy bones can’t even be bothered to turn around their head to give him a quick glance, letting along to venture a bark. The village is quiet like a silent scece in your dream.
Since the Ming Dynasty, during the lunar 1st - 15th April each year, the biggest Temple Fair around Beijing was hosted there that celebrated the birthday of Buddha Sakyamuni. Pre: Porridge
with Attitude
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